fcu6vZSApa4PzlRpwmfa3F8OZXA My journey towards Destiny

Friday, October 27, 2017

The Last hope

“Throw those two scumbags in prison!” - The digital screen on Martian Chief's chest displayed in Red colour indicating fury.


Maria wanted to argue, but suddenly everything was blacked out. She couldn't see the red hues which surrounded the place any more. In that shock, she wanted to express her agony by shouting. But she couldn't hear her voice! Nor she could hear voices of countless Martians that surrounded her till now.


She tried to touch her mission partner, Joseph. Damn. She felt much scarier now.  She couldn't feel Joseph, who was chained along with her. How could all this happen suddenly? She folded her fist in despair. In all these sudden mishaps, she realised that she is not able to smell her odour once again. How on Mars, could he loose all her senses at once!
Maria took breath heavily. She smiled as it is confirmed that she is alive. But what is this state she suddenly transformed into? She hit her head with hand. There is no feeling once again. Unable to convey anything, she collapsed on floor.


It was nearly a month ago that they landed on surface of Mars. NOSE (National Organisation of Space Exploration) worked night and day past five years, after successfully launching a probe, MORB into Mars orbit and then another probe (MARF) to move over surface of Mars. While those both probes collected a lot of data about the environment, weather and climate, lot of other details could be investigated further, if a human mind reaches Mars - mainly human inhabitation. NOSE took this project ambitiously and selected very experienced astronauts in their nation Maria Lomond and Joseph Strausser for the mission. After four years of rigorous training, many successful and failed experiments, learning to survive in mock environment, they finally started their journey to Mars. Man mission to Mars is a dream come true for NOSE and their Nation.


A mint flavoured tablet passing down her throat brought her out of the thoughts. She had that feeling once nearly for every 24 hours approximately for past five days. It is still the darkness. None of her senses are working. She is worried a lot about her friend Joseph. Thinking about the past is only remainder that she is alive.


Funds were allocated abundantly for the project. There is no looking back from government for approving anything that NOSE feels necessary. While there are chances that mission could fail, NOSE counted on experience of both their experienced astronauts and the hard work done by hundreds of other scientists, engineers. The day finally came, when the doors of their rocket were finally locked. They travelled for 104 days to enter Mars orbit and 20 days further to reach surface of Mars.


It is that fateful day they hit the Mars surface at wrong co-ordinates. As soon as they are about to touch the surface, they have experienced a heavy gravity pull.  That is first time in past four months that they are experiencing gravitational force. That force which is pulling them down is stronger than they have ever experienced. Maria looked at Joseph and smiled thinking that it is last time they can see each other. Life is always beyond our understanding. It teases us the way which we never imagine. They crash landed over a surface and thrown out of rocket chamber far apart from each other. Maria and Joseph were unconscious for a long period.


When they woke up after what seemed to be an eternity, all the red land which lured them from space turned into black only to realise that it is not the land but their visibility that turned blank. They were not able to see anything. They both shouted in agony. Voice is not being transmitted to each other, as batteries in suit are dead. They didn't have a clue about sudden loss of their sight. Their only option for survival is the amazing invention for this mission - The mint flavoured food capsule. One doesn't feel hungry for 24 hours if it is taken once. They were strategically placed in such a way that capsule directly enters mouth trough a nozzle connected to helmet with just a click of button inside their gloves. Each finger has different button has different function installed inside it for optimising movements of astronauts in space. 


They sat and then stood in same place for nearly a week! When both saw each other ,they couldn't believe that they are alive. Regaining ability to see and speak, brought them back into life. But they are not able to hear their own voices. It is hard to believe. Unable to express their anger in anyway, they started to go in search of their Space craft. Their only hope for something to happen!


The empty and vast red land seemed endless. Maria and Joseph used to walk till they were exhausted. When they became extremely tired, space suits were their bedrooms till they get motivated to start searching again.  Staring into dark space is no more fun. Walking seemed easy as they progressed.


As few more days passed by, they were able to see each other and hear their voices. Never before in life were they so happy to see each other. They used to draw on surface if anything has to be communicated. Surprisingly, past two days they were not able to sense the mint flavour of capsule. They didn't mind this problem, since they have experienced worse. Their hope led them ahead. 


Five more days passed and now a new problem. Maria was not able to smell her odour. When she communicated it to Joseph, he confirmed that it is same with him too! Not bothered the by experience they moved on. Seven more days passed. 


With enormous difficulty, Maria wrote on sand that she was not able to sense any buttons inside the suit. Joseph expressed the same! Bewildered now completely, that each of their senses is being lost for seven days each Maria feared what lay ahead for them. Since there is nothing else to do, they continued on their only mission of finding their rocket.
Taking food capsule became enormous task now. Sometimes pill wouldn't pop up at all and sometimes two or three pills would pop out of nozzle, as they are not able to sense the button. Seven more days passed in the eerie silence. Suddenly Maria started to feel those buttons. She soon realised that all her senses are working at same time. They both hugged each other’s space suits in happiness.
In that land of red hues they continued the search. Six more days passed. One day they saw two tiny green lights approach them. Maria and Joseph got closer. They feared if it is an alien. When those lights approached closer, they indeed saw an alien. Their faces went numb as they were unable to express either happiness or fear.


"Hello earthlings", a digital voice was heard from a speaker attached to alien's neck. Maria was still in surprise to see the nearly seven feet tall alien. A dark green body with shining green eyes is in front of them looking them eye to eye. It is protected by a sleeveless on top and under garment like thing on bottom appeared to be made of leather. Maria wondered if it is trying to convey them anything.
Maria causally waved at Alien and said “Hello"


Alien exclaimed " Oh finally, I heard a human talk". Maria was surprised that she could hear aliens voice coming out of speaker even when she is wearing helmet. Alien continued “I’m Esmapi, a space research scientist here in Umra, capital city of this planet. I don’t have time to explain everything. You both are in great danger. I will take you to a hiding place. When it is safe again, we can plan to think about going back. You are already acclimatised to this atmosphere past one week. It is very safe to remove your space suits. It will make you run faster, we don’t have time. Come on, follow me.”
Maria exclaimed “Remove space suits? What are you talking about? We are here for more than a month, not a week! What danger are we in?”


Esmapi grabbed them both and started running following the green light from her eyes. It started to explain. “Listen, you are now in inner sphere of Mars. Only our outer surface can be spotted from Earth. It is a very hard, thick shell which has microscopic holes called gorges. Humans cannot believe that sun light can be transmitted through gorges. Our inner sphere also rotates, but much slower than outer sphere. It takes nearly168 hours to rotate around itself, which is nearly one week for you.
We have concealed all our important and natural regions which are essential for our survival from you humans. That’s why probes sent by you never detected our presence. Have a look at this” Esmapi extended its palm in which an image is projected from its eyes.


“MARF! It is in really a bad shape” Maria and Joseph exclaimed at once.


Esmapi continued “We destroyed it. That probe is really intelligent. It might have discovered about us. MARF, started digging at a place in outer surface, which is very close to our primary connection with outer shell. Our relays didn’t transmit that information to us quick enough. By the time we reached there, MARF was about to transmit data, but we destroyed it with our very high capacity EMP guns, which are powered by our internal aura. That data never reached you.”


“But how are we in danger? What is the problem?” Joseph enquired.


Esmapi continued “Sunlight is our only source of life. We can’t survive without it. Our ancestors have created seven precious stones in which sun light is stored for us to live and work even during nights. The primary stone is Dimade, which powers other six stones. All the tiny beams of light from gorges concatenate to power Dimade. We are born with a receptor cell inside our head. In a prayer every day before evening, that light gets transmitted into us and stored in the form of Aura due to which ,we can function normally. Since all the light is transmitted to Dimade, it is all darkness around. I still don't have a clue that you are surviving here without any trouble. My curiosity to meet you both intensified  further” Esmapi paused “You both are heavy with space suits, let me remove them”
They shouted to warn that they will die if space suit is removed.
Esmapi ensured them “Our inner surface is very similar to earth in terms of gases present. Please don’t bother and believe me”
They hesitated, but Esmapi removed their helmets to make them believe. They quickly came out of space suits and felt relieved. “I’m feeling as light as a feather” Maria exclaimed.
They started running behind Esmapi, as it continued “We too are greedy just like you humans. Our ancestors forbade us to explore beyond inner surface. But because of our curiosity, we made a connection, to outer surface with a door like arrangement. When that door is opened and closed, light doesn’t get transmitted uniformly. Due to which we started losing some of our senses occasionally. When MARF dug that hole close to door, there were more disturbances in our system. Due to a malfunction in your rocket, it landed in a co ordinate which is not intended by you. Our fellow Martian, who is working on hole created by MARF, died in an unnatural way due to intensity of your crash. It is first time ever such a death happened in Mars. Also crash is again close to hole, made by MARF. The hole got elongated now and due to that, there is a huge increase in light that is being transmitted to Dimade. Also our senses are being varied each day now” It laughed and said “Seven days for you”


“Our chief was......” Esmapi fainted. Maria and Joseph saw a group who appeared similar to soldiers in front of them.


“Poor Esmapi is not prepared for the aura absorbing attack” one of the soldiers said with a wide grin. Maria and Joseph are taken in darkness to a place, which appeared to be their court. “Throw those two scum bags in prison” - The digital screen on Martian Chief's chest displayed in Red colour indicating fury.
Last thing Maria saw before being thrown into prison.


A cold touch brought her back into the senses. Someone with an odour similar to Esmapi is dragging her. Maria shouted “What is going on? Where am I being taken, Where is Joseph?”
“You will know, wait scum bag” A voice replied.
“Ah, here is the Scum bag! I could smell you from a long distance” A commanding voice continued “This is what you Earthlings have done to us. Taking our senses each a day! Do you realise its seriousness? The space junk left by probes, humans sent to Mars has blocked many gorges, disturbing sunlight that is being transmitted to Dimade. Mars population started suffering from diseases for first time. Our problems intensified with each probe you send. We lost ability to see on first day of our week, then we will not be able to hear, next our ability to taste is lost. When few more probes wanted to destroy our lives, our ability to smell and further sensing is lost. All this due to imbalances in Dimade and other six stones, caused by your human greed. MARF intensified such disturbance, your crash has worsened it. All our senses will not function on last day of week. Did you understand now? It is due to the protection we have taken so far, that gave us at least a day of week with all our senses.  Your curiosity’s cost to explore is life of a Martian. Every human and space craft that hits Mars surface from now will be doomed, It began with your fellow human.”


“What happened to Joseph?” shouted angered Maria.


“He died. Tablets with you are sufficient to keep only one of you alive. You too will face similar consequence as soon as your tablets are finished. Wait for your death. We are not killers like you. Only you can bring death upon yourself.” Martian Chief said.


“I don’t want to hear anything about human till her death. Throw her back into prison.” Maria heard Chief’s voice followed by a propulsion sound.
The pungent smell remained her that she is back in prison again.


“Is being curious wrong?” Maria wondered. “I will find a way to convince, to find harmony with Martians. I have to do it. I shall not die like this without giving any warning to fellow humans” She vowed.
Just then an apple fell on her head.

The hope is still alive.

Thursday, April 7, 2016

Day 13/13 - July 10th 2015 - Batal- Rohtang top- Delhi : part 2/2

While I'm lost in watching the rainbow, I have totally ignored the fact that clouds are passing right above me. Clouds !!

Did anything occur to your mind ?

Clouds ! It is going to rain ! It started with a raindrop falling on my forehead bringing me back to the reality from the fantasy world. I quickly wrapped a cover around the bag, pulled out the rain coat and wore it. Though the distance to Rohtang top become single digited, I lost hope that I will reach there and the increase in intensity of rain drops caused a bit of anxiety and fear in me.

Two more hair pin bends and the it started raining. I pedalled faster, but Mind it !it is one of the highest passes, so even my legs pedaled faster, I'm moving slowly. I started feeling much colder.When I thought it will never show up, just after a turn it appeared .


The Rohtang top. Standing with pride and crowned with snow. I wondered if it is the meaning of being Majestic.




Rohtang top.


My dream fulfilled, the reason I came all the way. There was snow all around ! Tons of snow and just snow. Even it is drizzling, my happiness was inexplicable. I thought how beautiful show white (Disney princess )would be looking. All the dirty ice blocks I saw till now, were nothing compared to the snow and beautiful white around me now. As if it is for me, rain stopped just for a while to enjoy the scenery all around. There are small green patches amidst the snow. I had no clue, if it is reality or if I'm looking at a painting. There was just happiness all around. People playing in the snow, sliding in it, throwing it all around. I was lost in thoughts seeing them all. Just to bring me back to reality it started raining again !


Everyone started going to Manali. Within five minutes I was there all alone getting drenched and I remembered that I'm hungry ! and damn !! there are no shops, nothing. It is only me there. The most confusing moment of my life. I was witnessing the most beautiful sight I ever saw and feeling sad at the same time. I started shivering more. The fog increased and visibility is getting decreased. I wore all the warm wear I brought and yet felt the cold. It was just freezing and my hands started shaking out of fear.


If I haven't seen Into the wild movie, I would have fainted there.I looked around, and I saw a small and wrecked house at a distance. I thought I will stay there if it gets dark.







Just in minutes it was turned foggy like this.

View My Video
A small video showing the condition around.


Time was still 6.30 pm and I have a small hope left that I would get a lift. Tourists who are going down hesitated to give me a hike. To my despair only oil containers are going. Still thoughts are running in my mind, that I came so far and so high, yet there is a sad feeling that I couldn't make it to Manali, the planned destination. I wanted to give a try and started pedalling , but due to rain brakes were not applying properly (rim was wet and slippery) . Since, it is downhill all the way to Manali,I didn't want to take risk.


Morning, when I started my plan was, even though I reach rohtang top by 6pm, I thought I could make the rest of 50 Kms downhill within 2-3 hours before Himalayan Sunset at 8.30/9 Pm, but I never expected rain, as I was in rain shadow region past one week,


Back on Rohtang top, I started waving my hand desperately at every vehicle that passed. I just laughed as it turned out to be a thriller climax to a beautiful picture. As each minute passed , I shivered more. I lost hope and I started waving with two hands now. (he he , sign of loosing everything), and finally a truck stopped. I couldn't even speak to them properly and they understood right away that I'm in a helpless position. They asked it would be Rs500 to drop me at Manali and I agreed readily.(of course, I'm almost ready to pay in thousands of demanded. Life is still sweet to me ) There are two of them and one loaded cycle in back and helped me to get inside cabin. They asked me remove all the rain coats and wrapped a rug around me. That warmth was so pleasant and cosy. They were bothers living near Mandi , doing Transportation business mainly between Himachal and Leh. The elder one scolded me for travelling alone and then cursed all cyclists and motor bike riders for going to Leh.


" arey, poora sukha rasta hai. Naa ped, naa kuch sundar aur sirf pattar ! Kya dekhne jaate ho aap log ? "


I had no answer at that time. But they were checking upon me constantly if I'm alight or not. I was alright, but as the truck passed through 10-15 feet high snow block, I nearly cried as I lost the chance to enjoy that beauty. At the same time, I trembled with fear whenever he applied brakes in slopes, that truck may fall in valley. To add to this, there were big rocks all along the road that fell from the hills. I asked them about their driving experiences and how they were able to do it . Their simple answer is
" jeena hai , toh kuch karna hai ".. and when I looked puzzled, they said,," aadat hogaya ".


He also told me, that he stopped just because I waved with two hands and he felt that I'm helpless.There was traffic jam, rain increased and with rocks falling I wondered how this journey would end. They asked me to sleep. I never sat inside a truck cabin before, but it was very comfortable there. There is even place for me to sleep. I slept without hesitating, waking up in between only to feel sad that I missed pedalling there. My heart beat came to normal when they woke me up telling that we reached Manali.


I was confused for a moment to decide, if I have to spend there a day or go back to Delhi. But since I reached Kunzum top, I was pissed off by the roads and conditions. Especially today's experiences made to call it the end of first beautiful journey of my life. Those brothers enquired if there is bus to Delhi. There is one , which is about to move and they made me board into it. Ofcourse my cycle too was loaded on top.


Inside bus, there was another young cyclist (he is in 11 th or 12 th class), who pedalled from Manali to Leh and came back after falling sick to AMS. He was admitted to hospital there and was sent back by Army. They even packed his cycle. Later in our conversation , this boy mentioned that he cycled from Rohtang top to Kanya kumari last year and he was the youngest Indian to do so. He assigned my next mission , he eh . We both were lost in conversation for sometime. Since, I was tired, the bumps didn't bother me from waking up from sleep.


It was a fresh morning next day. I'm on plains. I had two big glasses of Lassi at Kurukshetra to enjoy my victory. The plains, paddy fields, rivers and sugarcanes in Punjab are very beautiful. It was a very long journey to Delhi, but in bus going at that speed, it was thrilling after travelling in single digit speeds for long long time.




Beautiful fields at Kurukshetra


Me and Mohit Kapoor (Young cyclist )parted in our own ways in auto after reaching ISBT. I stayed for three days in my sisters home there. I ate rice and other south Indian delicacies to my fullest. This time I choose GATI to bring back my bike to Chennai for avoiding and hassle in airport. All those three days , all the trip used roll in my memory while I slept and when I woke up I used to think when will I get a chance to be back there.


But I severely regret missing Dharangathi, Sarahan,Kalpa, Dhankar and mainly Chandrataal. Even when I listen about Mud valley now, I feel sad that I couldn't make it there. I only satisfy myself telling that there is always a next time.


Two more things I missed are the grand welcome Monk got on Rohatang top and that pride got after talking to condutor getting onto bus going to Delhi. The conductor in bus I boarded just gave ticket for me and cycle with no feelings in face and went away !


Even when I'm typing now, tears are formed in my eyes. This trip has changed my life in a permanent way. After coming back to Chennai, I became an endurance cyclist and started participating in events called brevets (long distance cycling events from 200-1200 km) and pedalled more than 14,000 Kms in past 9-10 months with 1000 km being one among those events. I wouldn't hesitate to attribute all that power to the inspiration I got from mighty mountains. There was recognition at work because of this trip and even in life. I'm meeting different people from different walks of life because of cycling.


Those beautiful people, the valleys, rivers, mountains, sheep, cattle, dogs, chowmein, momos, HRTC buses, yuts and mostly the damaged roads, everything became part of my life. There is not even one day that has passed without thinking about any one of them. My manali- leh and Zuluk trip this year was cancelled as I got very busy in these events. My longing for coming back there grew even desperate now, but I have to wait for my time.


It would be very bad on my part if I stop this travelogue without thanking four important people that helped me for this tour.


1. Dheeraj Sharma and Devil On Wheels team - Believe me, I had no clue about anything about Himachal and forget Spiti. All the place names were tongue twisters initially. I didn't even knew where to start or end. Thanks to selfless help of Dheeraj and others here, that many were able to visit those beautiful vistas. He gave me detailed itinerary for travelling in public transport, with day to day journey break up. At the point of asking him, it was still a back packing trip.


2. Monk - who works at xBHP. He went in the same route on cycle. When I had no clue about anything there, he wrote a very detailed blog and instructions for riding in Spiti valley, It became my bible for three months and I sincerely read it everyday morning. It boosted my moral confidence that I can indeed ride there.


3. Nobal Mohan - He is from Bangalore, who cycled from Shimla- Leh, the year before. After reading his blog and seeing pictures,no one could stop me coming to Himalayas by cycle. It was very inspiring and I can say, it made me courageous and prepared.


4. Prakash- when we desperately wish for some sincere cause, we will be definitely shown a path. While practising for riding there, I met Prakash accidentally in Chennai. He went several times to Himalayas on Cycle and travelled a lot over north east. He guided me with route and conditions, and after meeting him, I was very confident that I can definitely do it . If I hadn't met him, I would have definitely missed visiting Baghi and Bahli. Taking diversion at Narkanda, to avoid Highway was his idea.If I was not much scared at Darangathi, I would have enjoyed more.

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Day -13/13 -July 10 th - Batal - Rohtang Top - Part 1/2 - My Cycling trip to Himalayas

Day-13: Batal-Rohtang pass
Distance : 64 km
Batal to Chatru : 32 Kms undulating and descent through Chota Dhara
Chatru to Rhotang pass : 32 Kms.
Undulating, Descents,ascents till Gramphoo and gradual ascent till Rhotang pass.

I didn't have a good sleep due to the speculations on stream crossings, which made me wake up exactly on time to start at 6 am. The bill at dhaba is negligible compared to the places I travelled before. Everyone had breakfast and in no time, I was on saddle. Others started few minutes later.




It is very weird situation after Batal. The roads are worse. It was cold, yet I am sweating. Road appears climbing but pedalling was easy !

Also this is the entirely different day in the trip, in terms of beauty and challenges the magical land offered me. The landscape changed ,all of a sudden. The barren and dusty mountains are replaced by rocky and snow caped peaks.

There were snow blocks on both sides of roads at many places. At some places there were channels made below the road and water flows behind the ice blocks !

This beauty is a treachery leading me to the stream crossings. There were stream crossings for every 5/6 kilometres. The first few crossings were easy and I pedalled through them easily and it was fun. As sun started rising, the flow of water and depth of streams got increased. I have put on my sandals for further crossings. At some places and it was terribly scary as I had no idea, how deep the streams were ?



I used to push my front wheel for checking the depth and then used to step on the biggest visible stone for proceeding ahead. At places, the wheels of incoming Enfield were half immersed in the streams and that sight used to cause a chill in my spine !

Looking at these streams, I wondered how terrible the pagal nalah will be ! At every stream I used to look around in desperation to see if I can get any help for crossing, but its only in vain. Sarcastically, vehicles used to come as soon as I crossed. After pedalling sometime and if I remember correctly, after crossing chota dhara I came across a very big stream. All the streams till then were harldy 10/20 meteres, but this is very big and will be surely 60 or 70 meters long and water is muddy not giving me a chance to estimate depth. If that was the first stream crossing I had to cross ,I would have fainted right away. Again there is no sign of getting any help and I crossed the stream spending the longest two minutes of my life ! I caught my breath after the crossing and felt so happy to be alive. I have asked a shepherd passing by, if this is the pagal nalah and he said yes. I felt so relieved.

Spiti had no mercy on me .When I passed few kilometres, there was a big waterfall, directly falling on the road and damn, it is a national highway ! Stream is more than 100 metres long and one could imagine the reaction in my face to see this after crossing pagal nallah. I parked the cycle, went and checked the depth for few visible metres and then came back to take the cycle again. This stream was thrilling compared to the previous one as the water is clear and I could see the stones, but it is very deep and made my feet numb as that waterfall is melted ice !




After crossing some more small streams, I reached Chatru at 9am. I had breakfast there and now it was time to decide to decide the destiny of my day. 30kms riding takes me to Gramphoo and if I ride 81 kilometres more ,I will be in Manali.
I made a bad estimate, that I may reach Manali, by the time it gets darker (10 more hours )as 50 kms from Rohtang top to manali is a downhill.

I started slowly. All of a sudden landscape changed to incredibly beautiful green. It is a very beautiful sight, to see such green among the rocky hills. Some of the peaks appeared very smooth. The spiti flowing throughout, with roaring sound adds the missing sound effects from nature.

In this route, I was constantly stopped by the herds of sheep and sometimes horses. I had to get down every time due to the dogs protecting them. Some of the shepherds just are laying on the rocks looking after the flocks of more than 500 sheep. I curiously asked one of the shepherds if they lose count anytime, but he replied that all sheep will return home safely and he need not worry about the count.










 I was riding steadily, coming across BRO workers and shepherds at many places. Gramphoo never showed up and I even began to get hungry. Around 2 pm I have arrived at a junction, where the road from spiti splits as road going to Leh and other one going to Rohtang top, which is just 15 kms. I was not aware that Gramphoo is just few kilometres downhill and also there is no one to ask for directions.

I have decided to head for Rohtang top and have some food over the top. I thought, I will be there in a hour or so ! My bad flat route rate calculations.

Seeing tarmacs after a long long time made me happy,but my bicycle was very slow on that also with the increasing steepnees, I was terribly slow. Also there countless hairpin bends.
The biggest water stream I had to cross





Throughout the climb, I got cheers and thumbs up from the bikers passing by. Many even took my photographs while riding ! Even though that brought a smile on my face ,the quads cried in pain which made me sad and even more hungry. I ate the chocolate bars in available with me, even the dry fruits, hoping to refill everything on the top. I thought that I will have a hot plate of chowmein.

After some time, I was completely exhausted and couldn't pedal any more. I sat for sometime,then walked and pedalled again.All the while many Enfields and Dukes whizzed past me either to Rohtang or to Leh. I got envy looking at their speed, but I was helpless. I just pedalled ahead as it is the only thing I could do at that moment.






At times, in beautiful places when you are sad and in despair, the mother nature does something to cheer you up. After all that is the duty of mother. I got the surprise I wished for past 13 days. A rainbow appeared right in front of me. I was speechless for a moment. Viewing rainbow on the way to Rohtang top towards Chatru is just a pur bliss. It is the beautiful sight I ever saw. Added to its beauty are the clouds that passing right in front of me. I was thrilled and stood there for sometime.

One should not forget that I'm in a land of magic. Again, nature has it's own way of teasing you. Enjoying the rainbow, I forgot about the villain which passed right before me and troubles he has put me into !


A rainbow and cloud passing before me , made my day




Stay connected to meet the villain.

Sunday, October 25, 2015

Day-11/13:7th July- Kaza-Losar : My Cycling trip to Himalayas

Day-11:7th July- Kaza-Losar
Distance : 52 Kms
Undulating stretch with climb trough switch back after Kyoto bridge and gradual climb till Losar village


After staring ride from Kaza,I understood why it is called the gateway of spiti. The land turned more enchanting and hills more beautiful.





I avoided Ki monastery also due to climb and moved ahead. I wanted to go there desperately , but ten days of riding in mountains made my legs figure out ,every way I can escape a climb. At Rangrik I had tea. I saw a new food here, potato stuffed between a kind of flour and being fried. I got two of them packed and moved ahead.


The beautiful Ki Monastery










The road condition is worse again. It started to drizzle a littlle as I'm approaching Hull village. Hull is a small village with enchanting beauty all around. Here I could see the rain falling in valley behind me and sunlight ahead of me.I felt , I would see a rainbow today but Spiti is not kind enough to me in this aspect.

I pedalled as slow as I can ,to enjoy the beauty of Hull. I spoke with some workers in Jowar fields. Had some of the packed food and went ahead.









It is small but yet exhaustive climb at Kyoto bridge. Losar was only 16 kms from there . I thought, it will be just an hour of ride .But the gradual climb makes it tough to ride and made me respect Himalayas once again.

At Hansa village , I was exhausted and enquired if I can get tea anywhere ,but no luck. A person saw me and invited to his home for tea.

I was completely taken away by the hospitality provided by this person Dogre and his brother Tenzin. From the way they speak one can notice their innocence.They have identified Chennai from CSK team ! We spoke about their life in winters and their daily routine. While leaving, they said " agle saal parivar ke saat aayie,hum aapki seva karenge " ... that line has touched me and my respect on Himalayan people increased further.







Few kilometres later , I have encountered the first stream crossing. A innova is already struck in it! Flow is heavy and sound adds more scare. I had no idea how I will be able to cross it. I removed my shoes and prepared myself mentally to cross. An other vehicle passing by stopped ,helped innova cross it, helped a couple on bike cross and finally they helped me cross the stream . That 30 meters walk is the longest and toughest walk in my life. The freezing cold water made my feet numb.Little did I know that this is the teaser for the upcoming blockbuster.




After crossing another stream, I have entered Losar slowly. I was welcomed by herds of Donkeys, cows and horses. I had to wait for them to cross the bridge for entering the village.




There are more snow peaks now and I could feel the beauty and chill.


In PWD house accommodation has to be reserved through phone and they denied us to stay. I went to village and got a accommodation. Mahesh and the couple on bike (Hitesh and his wife)I saw at the water crossing were already there. I was told that another couple is arrivng there on bicycle ! I was so eager to meet them.


There were also other tourists in that place, it is such a delight to interact with many people and know their travel stories and experiences. A person is on a roadtrip in hjs duster past two months alonv with his wife and a 4/5 year old kid !
It was getting dark and cycling couple didn't arrive. Everyone is worried about them and after lot of waiting they arrived and minutes later everyone gathered for dinner. I liked the rice they served there and had lots of it.


It started getting very cold gradually and even it is partly cloudy. So I didn't bother to stay out and went to room for sleeping. In Tabo and Kaza, it is very hot in the night that I didn't use blanket at all while sleeping,but losar I had to cover up my self with thermals and two blankets.


Another beautiful day in spiti has come to an end.

Bliss in the Hills - 2015

Prologue :

Since PBP (Paris Brest Paris, a 1200km endurance cycling event to be finished in 90 hours and it is kind of world cup for randonnuers ) is finished, my excitement of participating in a 1200 brevet is increased exponentially.

I have seen a randonnuering friend here in Chennai who rode 200kms the previous night and is all set to ride a 300 km brevet in the dawn,as practice for PBP. I was like a just born in the world of randonnuering then. The dedication in his practise made me fall in love with randonnuering right away.

A month later in August, PBP was held and finished in a grand manner. Tracking the riders from Chennai, following the updates, seeing the pictures from France, I got addicted to PBP. A rider from Chennai, Ashwin Govindswamy has finished PBP within 77 hours. That fuelled my spirit further and randonnuering became part of my blood and breath .Since then, I was desperate to participate in a very long brevet.

Signing up forBITH, Reaching the Garden city and start :


Just like a boy who enjoys looking at every girl in college during teens, I started to like and send request for joining many randonnuring pages in facebook, Bangalore Brevets being one of them. In the course of finishing SR,I came to know that events in Bangalore were one of the toughest due to rolling terrain and climbs. So I wanted to take up the challenge of riding atleast a brevet there. One day, I came across this event in their fb page and signed up right away to fulfill the desire of taking part in a 1200 brevet and also a brevet in Bangalore.


Being a very lazy rider, I knew I was not very fit and knew very well that I still don't have the experience of riding such a length within the time, yet I want to take a chance and see the power of enthusiasm, which made me sign up for the grand brevet. Also, in some corner of my heart I wanted to prove that love on randonnuering and mental strength is enough to finish a 1200 km brevet and fitness can be secondary ! ( I was proved wrong later )


I was skeptical about many things, proving my point about fitness being the first and then food, sleep management, unexpected bicycle problems, wild animal encounters, forest night rides etc.I didn't want to take any chance with bicycle, so got it overhauled , chaged chain, rear sprocket, bearing balls and was all set for the ride.I wanted to get a Brooks saddle before the event to prevent saddle sore, but I couldn’t afford one it as the Treasure chest was almost empty due to two outstation brevets, in same month. Also a chat with Mohan and Opendro changed my thinking and made me go with my stock saddle.


My only practise was riding a 600 BRM in Hyderabad and then a 400 BRM in Mumbai before the event. Since, both were rolling terrains and having finished both of them my confidence levels for participating in BITH are boosted.


I got a huge support from my family, friend and friends from randonnuering world who knew that I'm attempting BITH, which made me confidently board a volvo bus to Bangalore. In Bangalore, I started looking for a hotel near start point, but then I saw posters of paying guest hostels and settled in one at Madiwala.


As usual, I had a sumptuous rice filled lunch for a heavy carb loading before the event. I slowly pedalled to start point near silk board and I was the first one to reach there. This start point is unusual from the other brevets I have seen, where there used to be lot of organisers, brevet cards , banannas and lot of noise ! It was utterly opposite here with just one of the organizer and I wondered if anyone will show up .


Soon some organizers and other riders showed up. I could sense that everyone filled with some sort of unknown feeling. Not sure if it is pride to be at start or tense to go into the wild like me or excitement to finish the ride very quick !


I was happy to see Mohan, who was from Bangalore and we rode along in a 600 brevet at Hyderabad. I was eager to meet Opendro and Chiddu.While reading about brevets in bangalore I came across their blogs and wanted to see them in person.


I was not sure Opendro, was name of a magazine (which, I confused with over drive) or some product and was surprised to know that it is name of a person. Also his blog about the BITH held last year was very detailed which was my only reference and confidence about the route and how it going to be. Also I was privileged to meet Ashok Thiruvengadam, PBP finisher, whose picture will somehow pop up on my facebook wall everyday and Manjula Sridhar, I read her blogs and was happy to see her in person.


Reading till here, those who are not associated with randonnuering can get a sense that ,it is not only about cycling but about lot many other things like people, new meetings, their writings,new places etc.


As soon as Chiddu arrived at start point , Brevet cards were distributed, bikes were inspected and after a small briefing the ride was started twenty minutes later than scheduled, among the cheers and wishes from the supporters gathered.


A person by name, Anil Kadsur is riding a fixie. Fixed gear cycle is one in which one has to pedal as long as the cycle moves and legs cannot rest. Riding it is considered as challenge and usually people who are riding it deserves a lot of respect.


To Belur ( 1st CP)


As I was not completely aware of the route for getting out of city, I followed the wheels of Mohan. It was fun manoeuvring through traffic in which many cars were struck and we were moving at a decent speed. Traffic accompanied us a little beyond till Yeshwantpur. The roads were all ours as soon as we crossed Nelamangala to join the Mangalore Highway.


Silvester , a PBP finisher and Ramesh Palani ,also from Chennai and a PBP participant were also riding along. All four of us are on MTB’s. Except Mohan, rest of us are riding with slick tires. While following PBP, I wondered if I can see any PBP rider at all, but now I was overjoyed as I am riding along with them.


I asked Silvester many questions about PBP, for which he answered very patiently. After 40-45Kms of ride, my sipper got emptied. I didn’t want to miss the group as we are going at a decent speed, but riding without water is a suicide attempt. So, I stopped for water at a bakery, refilled sipper, brought a spare bottle and was back on saddle very soon. It started to drizzle as soon as I started.


After few Km’s (around 70 km) I saw that rest of group stopped at a hotel for a quick food stop. I too joined them, and refilled hungry stomach. We planned here to ride together till the end of ride. We stopped at Mayura hotel around 115 kms from start point for Dinner. After few stretches, curd rice and lemon juice we were back on saddle.


I was little sad that, I missed greenery along the route. It was unusual, but I was surprised to see myself riding ahead of group. I always find myself among the last set of riders usually. I stopped a couple of times for group to catch up and Mohan advised me not to stop, unless I’m tired. Those words acted as some magic and from there I just sprinted. I read account of fastest PBP rider a day ago and it too helped me maintain a good speed, tail wind also helped me. It was very pleasant initially, but then the deep silence of the night turned scary which prompted me to turn on music, which increased my speed. I stopped in between for refilling water and caught up with group again, but then I went ahead again. Around 20 Kms ahead of Hassan, an auto driver warned me, to be careful as it is going to be forest ahead. As soon as he left, the batteries of my light were drained and I was left in pitch dark. I changed the batteries soon and started to ride again. I reached Hassan around 1 am and was waiting for the group.


We took a very small detour, as we missed a turn and were back on path quickly. After a small halt at a tea shop and riding through fog filled roads, we reached Belur at 3.15 am. It is entirely silent and one can sense a nice smell from fields and trees, some I hope were eucalyptus. I can feel the cold already, but being on saddle helped me maintain warmth. We saw Chiddu at Control who took our picture and we moved on without taking rest. A mental hurdle which I couldn’t jump over, something that didn’t go according to my plan, I wanted to rest here for a while, but had to move as group is starting. Sleep started to hit me right away
.
To Madikeri – 2nd CP :


After sometime, we stopped at a temple, where Opendro and his team were resting. I will be extremely thankful to Ramesh Palani, for feeding us with his home made Chapathis. We then caught up with other riders and rode till Ballupet on a extremely bad and pot hole filled roads. Sad that Mohan slipped at place, but luckily nothing happened. Everyone stopped for a quick coffee and snack break at a roadside tea shop, but it turned out to be a pretty long break.


Our group started ahead and from here, the bliss started for me. When fog started to disappear , greenery showed up . It appeared like we are making way through green blankets. Coffee plantations appeared both sides. I couldn’t notice anything apart from green. I felt the essence of Coorg (Kodagu). We passed through a series of small towns Kodlipet, Sanivara santé and Somvarpet to start climbing for Madikeri.


Till here the terrain was manageable for me and I maintained a decent speed, but from here the gradient was higher and climbs appeared to be tougher. I’m being bathed in sweat. At many palces, I was reluctant to ride in lower (easy gears), which also made me exhaust a lot. After many small stops, very minute power naps, we reached Madikeri.


The entire route was surrounded by hills, I was very sad that my first visit to such a beautiful place is in a brevet, which didn’t allow me to enjoy the nature to the fullest.


Ramesh palani’s front derailleur got damaged and he was struck on larger chain ring, riding with that is not easy, but he managed to continue, appreciate his power and attitude. It was so nice of Mohan and Silvester to wait for us at entrance of town. Madikeri welcomed us with nearly 45 degrees downhill slope. After lunch and power nap, we started again.


To Iritty – 3rd CP :-


It was a steep downhill ride with occasional climbs till Virajpet, where we stopped for a juice. Here, I was seriously hit by sleep deprivation, but didn’t want to waste time in day light, so started to ride for Iritty. It was a very steep downhill ride till Iritty through very dense plantations, where sun light hesitated to fall on roads. It would have been a beautiful ride on a normal day. I was sleep riding throughout the length, which made it a terrible ride. I missed hitting three four vehicles and was saved because of their loud honking. I washed my face many times but it was of no use and I continued. But, I was happy that I crossed yet another state on bicycle. I’m in Kerala now.


I was feeling alright as soon as I reached a place called, Kottupuzha. I got chance to ride with Opendro and team for a while here. It was rolling terrain and my quads has become sensitive for climbs, also I felt urge for using washroom, but didn’t want to stop as time is running out. At Iritty, the group decided to move in and I had no option except to follow. We started after an Ice cream and Juice refill.


To Periya Climb start-


The group was all set for an adventure of riding through forest during night and we started moving ahead asking for directions. Ashutosh, also joined us here. Silvester’s bicycle got a flat on the way and it was a blessing in disguise for me to catch up a little nap.


The gradient became higher and the climbs became strenuous. Whenever I turned back, it was just pitch black and darkness. I felt so proud and happy, that I’m riding in such extreme conditions. We took many breaks due to which the rythm of climbing is lost. Also we walked, when group became very exhausted.


All the way, the silhouettes of big leaves appeared as ears of elephant and I was too scared to move ahead alone. After what appeared to be an eternity, we reached the control at start of periya climb few minutes before the cut off time around 9.10 pm. I used washroom at the hotel and we had food whatever that is available. I have removed my wet jersey which was drenched with sweat, drizzle throughout and just put on light weight wind jacket. This helped me recover from shivering.


To Kalpetta :-


The hairpin bends were easy to climb, but then, the downhill pothole filled roads made our ride terrible. The time which is intended for making up time lost in climbs is now being wasted in riding carefully over the potholes. We stopped at many places and even slept on roads. At a place while waiting for Ashutosh, who was left behind, we were warned of elephant crossing by an auto passing by and were suggested to wait at next village.


The group moved very slowly, when we started again and we halted at a roadside tea stall. I had first sukku coffee in my life there (Black coffee). Being very hot it tasted amazing. Even after having two of them, I went into a deep sleep. I thought it was a fifteen minute nap, but everyone in group slept too, turning it into a 1.5 hour sleep. It was end of the brevet for me mentally as we have to ride another 30 odd kms with only few minutes left. I wore a boxer inside my cycling short, which caused a terrible chaffing . Even it slowed me down a lot.


When we set back to ride, I was terribly disappointed, yet moved ahead with some hope. I don’t remember what happened till Manthanvady, as I was sleep riding throughout, but it was all either climb or pothole downhill. We stopped for a tea/coffee break and moved ahead. We halted for a power nap even now. Silvester’s rear wheel had a problem and while they are at it, I had a nap once again.


When we started again the group dispersed and after riding few kilometres I was awake suddenly realizing that I’m riding alone. I saw green fields all around me. I remembered it is Kerala. I was more than happy, as most of Kerala has never ending green and sun has just started to come up. Blissed once again and I started to pedal little quicker, enjoying the route thoroughly.


I reached around 8.15 am to the control (seven hours late), where organizers have taken a resort for the riders.


Ride ended and began :


When I reached there, Mohan and Silvester are getting prepared to ride ahead. I was utterly confused as I was neither in a position to ride nor sleep. I took my time to decide. Before anything, I got refreshed with a hot water bath. Ravindra,( one of the organizer )asked me why I was not sleeping. I said I’m not sure. He then said that I wanted to ride and not rest, also he has narrated his past experiences and encouraged me to finish the route. Ramesh once again offered, homemade tamarind rice. I took some of the essentials and being not sure, where I will end up I even took a spare dress from the drop bag, left all wet clothes in drop bag again and went ahead at 11.30 am. I wanted to ride atleast till ooty.


Blissed again :


As soon as I started from Kalpetta to Gudalur, I noticed the beauty of tea fields spread across on both sides of roads. Every turn offered a beautiful view. It is a rolling terrain once again. My quads cried every time I climbed. I was riding very slowly and halting too frequently. I slept in many bus shelters. The beauty and tea fields on both sides were never ending. They were the only relief in this ride.


After sometime, Tamilnadu border board welcomed me. I was overjoyed once again to cross state border on bicycle. The terrain turned much more beautiful now. Even though it is mostly downhill till Gudalur, I struggled to ride. At a point before Pandalur, my body gave up completely and I couldn’t pedal any further. That was a sad moment, but I had to call off the ride.

I hiked up in a auto till Gudalur and got onto Mysore bus.Sadly it was more downhill ride as soon as the auto started. Luckily, the bus was empty. Conductor has noticed my sleep deprived eyes and asked me to sleep in three seater side. I woke up only when the bus reached Mysore.


I got a place to sleep in dormitory and I relaxed with a little pain of ending the ride this way.


To Bangalore and Beyond :


I have decided to ride till Bangalore next day. I started at 10.30 am after a relaxing hot water bath and my favourite set dosa breakfast. The ride was easy as the route was rolling down towards Bangalore. I was very happy to pass through many sugar cane fields and beautiful towns. I had many cucumbers on the way and enjoyed ride looking at beautiful wooden toys at Chennapattana. My plan was to reach Bangalore, before it gets dark. There was big traffic jam before Wonder la, which slowed me down. I reached Kengeri at 6 pm and was sad to know that bicycles were not allowed on NISE road. I used google map and rode along Dr Vishnu Vardhan road, which ends at Banshankari. I knew the route from there till silk board and reached the accommodation I took at beginning, which marked end of a beautiful bliss.


Next morning, I was eager to meet finishers and talk with them. I went to end point and joined organizers in welcoming them. Chiddu, reached first followed by Opendro and rest of six. It was a joyful occasion, even being there is bliss. After every brevet, I feel that I should never ride again, but seeing such moments will make me inspire and be back on saddle right away. I spoke with most of them and learnt many new things.

I started to Chennai in a Volvo right way and was back in the routine business, with my mind and heart lost somewhere in between Madikeri and Gudalur. I was not sure if it is the feeling that I have not completed or the beauty of places but it was just bliss and nothing else in my mind.


Signing off-

For map check out : http://ridewithgps.com/routes/10555502


Route :
Bangalore – Nelamangala –– Hassan – Belur – Belagodu – Balupet – Shanivarsanthe – Somwarpet – Madikeri – Murnad – Virajpet – Iritty – Periya – Mananthavadi – Panamaram – Kalpetta


– Meppadi – Gudalur – Naduvattam – Ooty – Doddabetta – Kotagiri – Metupalayam – Avinashi – Salem – Yercaud – tirupattur – Jolarpet – Yelagiri – Jolarpet – Tirupattur – Barghur – Krishnagiri – Hosur – Bangalore

Day 12/13- 8th July - Losar - Kunzum pass - Batal

Day-12: Losar-Kunzum Pass - Batal
Distance : 33 Kms.
Ascent till Kunzum La and 11km steep descent till Batal ( Worst riding conditions and heavy head,cross winds)

In Losar, I was asked to enter details at the police check post as I'm travelling alone. I started pedalling after  that. Today is the big day the in whole trip as I will be climbing a mountain pass, all by myself, one of the reasons I came for this trip.

Water ways have a different meaning in Himalayas


 It is not very tough but a long climb to Kunzum. The grasslands and flowers has taken away my sadness that I couldn't make it to valley of flowers this year. I was getting more and more closer to Snow peaks.The biggest mountain peak is palying hide and seek with me by hiding it self in clouds not giving me a chance to capture it. I'm not sure if it is altitude sickness, but there is some trouble in my breathing and got headache.I couldn't pedal with ease because of that.

I stopped every now and then, drank lot of water. People in passing by vehicles used to throw a look of surprise at me and some were generous enough to stop and advice " Dheere chalana,paani peena". ( Ride slow, drink water)



The Climb to Kunzum begins
Mile stone !


Peak at Kunzum top, seen from two kilometers to reach




After lot of pedalling I saw a temple,surrounded by flags. I thought it is Kunzum top, but no it is not. I started moving again. The road appeared plain further , yet tough to pedal. After an eternity passed and infinite pedalling, I could see Kunzum top and made there finally.

I pedalled all the way  4,590 m or 15,060 ft high.

Though I'm on one of the highest passes, the surrounding mountains made me feel that I'm on a low land. I was very happy that I have reached Kunzum. After giving up at 19kms on first day, I never thought that I will make it so far ! Another moment of pride for me.


Temple at Kunzum Top
The flags around were waving  severely due to winds. As per the custom, I made completed a loop around the kunzum temple.  After looking at all peaks around me once again, I have started for Batal.

The winds are blowing severely and this is the one of the worst ride ever. The path is filled with sharp stones and boulders and it is a downhill ! It has completely pissed me off. The winds were pushing off the ridge and traffic if also little high. To add more challenge, there are ice blocks and small water pools as they were melting.

The loops were never ending, and I had no clue when Batal will show up. I now figured out how high I have climbed :) After sometime when I have lost all my patience, Batal showed up.

Apart from a dhaba and a PWD guest house nothing else is there. One should definitely experience the stay at Batal. You get to sleep in a stone house or in a bunker. Chacha Chachi Dhaba is the only source of food there. A search in internet will reveal greatness of the elderly couple serving so many tourists. I enjoyed their hospitality very much. Almost every vehicle passing through that route will stop there.

After having food and refreshed, I looked for a vehicle that will go to Chandra taal Lake, I couldn't find any.I was in no mood to pedal in such heavy head and cross winds . I waited some more time but, I was not lucky to have a visit to Chandrataal this time.

I walked around. There are only snow peaks around and every peak is beautiful.

The couple I met at water crossing before Losar was also here. Two guys from Delhi who were touring on a KTM duke were staying here from the day before. We all started chatting and it went non stop for few hours. Severe winds forced us to go inside dhaba.I was surprised how the stone structures were able to with stand such heavy winds.

The guys from Delhi are professionally DJ and VJ . They shared their experiences and it went on till the ghost stories and scary routes in Delhi. After dinner we all dispersed.

During dinner, every one speculated about the stream crossings ahead and especially the Pagal nala , in which is very and deep with a flow enough push a van into the river ! So the couple and both guys planned to start early in the morning to avoid heavy flow.

The talk about streams brought a little phobia inside me and I wanted to leave as early as possible. So even I thought to leave early, leaving the Chandertaal behind. A sad decision, yet I had to make.

It is pitch dark inside the tent and I have put on light music and went to sleep. The experiences I had today were not so beautiful as they motivated me to get out of spiti soon !

for

I should not forget to mention about the costs at Batal. The price of the stine hut per day is rs 100. Two meals, a yummy fried rice, a tomato soup, many tea, and eight roasted bread cost just 300 rs.